Have you ever been in love with a sewing pattern that you just had to buy it immediately and make it? When Colette Patterns introduced the Anise Jacket Pattern on Sept 13th, it was love at first sight that I instantly got the digital release on the date of the pattern launch. Ok never mind that I live in Malaysia where the weather is only warm (ok, seriously it's hot and humid actually) and ocassionally rainy the whole year. I must admit I was perspiring at the end of this photo shoot! I can only wear this jacket to the air conditioned office and someone please give me airplane tickets to visit a country where there is autumn or winter already!
This was my first time ever making a jacket, it was a HUGE learning curve, I learned so much! I cut a Size 2 and didn't make any pattern alterations. I omitted the shoulder pads as I felt they were not needed.
The Anise has 8 buttons and 2 are hidden underneath the collars.
I paired the dress with the first fully lined dress, McCalls M5927
The Facts
Fabric: 1.5 yards of tweed (yes, it was scratchy!) plaid/houndstooth looking (can someone decide for me?). It was 60 inch width so I was able to squeeze all the main pattern pieces into 1.5 yards, yay. RM12/USD4 a yard, it was quite 'old looking' in the store and highly discounted. I wonder if it's not popular due to our warm weather. Beware, tweed frays quite easily and stretches a bit too due to its weave but of course I didn't know any better when I chose it for my first jacket attempt.
The lining fabric is rather thick, sturdy unbleached cotton meant for doll skin making. Originally I opted for an aquamarine satin lining but ditched it later because I omitted the underlining of this jacket due to my warm weather but halfway I knew the jacket won't be sturdy enough if I didn't use a sturdier lining. I think it's a blessing in disguise because lining a jacket can be tricky if you are using thin swishy-swashy material.
Notions: Interfacing, 8 one-inch buttons
Total Cost (excluding pattern): Approximately RM35/USD10.90
Pattern Notes:
For a first timer like me, this pattern requires a lot of patience because it requires fairly much (ok, I admit A LOT!) of hand stitching (the lining). Though I must say through this experience, I have finally learned properly how fell stitching and slip stitching should be done, ha!
I am most proud of my welt pockets, it wasn't easy for a beginner like me. I would advise anyone who has not attempted these kind of pockets before to have a clear and focused mind when making this as it requires you to slit the front jacket at one point and cut it to the edges of the underlaying pockets (scary! one false move then all your work is gone!). There are also a few pattern pieces to making this pocket so it needs some figuring it out. I think it would be more helpful if Colette had included notches on the underlaying pocket pieces.
When fully buttoned, the look is more military style smart.
Is it only me, but do you realize that my pockets are rather low hanging on the jacket? I compared it to Colette's version, theirs seem to situated higher towards the waist. After I finished the pockets I compared the placement of the pockets again to the original pattern pieces and I didn't think there was any mistake in tracing. The edge of the insides of the pockets extend beyond the lining at the hem of the jacket (but it doesn't show so in the pictures in the Anise companion book) so I had to just 'tuck them in somehow' but I am glad it still works. I used the digital pattern. If you have made up your Anise, can you share with me if you have seem-to-be lower placed pockets as well?
The back view. My husband said it's a bit loose looking but I think perhaps it's due to my poor posture. I used normal interfacing because I had no idea what is 'weft interfacing' and the craft stores here do not label notions in English. I intended it to be a summery jacket so I just used normal interfacing. I am a bit unhappy that the collar looks slightly floppy. Note to self for next Anise: Thicker collar interfacing.
You can also style it unbuttoned and you have a more casual look.
Want to see some lining? Sorry for the wrinkly rayon dress. It was also my first sheath dress and after having made a few later, I realized the fitting on this one was a bit off.
And I was so sorry that I completely missed out the BOUND buttonholes! There was one sentence in the instructions that states 'Optional' to make bound buttonholes (and to refer further to the Anise Companion handbook or Colette blog for tutorial) before attaching the front facing to the jacket and I completely missed that part. I thought buttonholes are usually left until the end. Next Anise, must try these professional looking buttonholes.
Colette instructed for a 2-inch hem and I folded at 2 inch at the designated hem line. The main fabric section is only 5/8 inch at the hem when finished (lining slip stitched to the armscyes) and the hem fold doesn't rest exactly at the hem line that I traced from the pattern piece. This is all fine by me (the shorter VISIBLE hem) but can someone enlighten me, does a 2 inch hem includes the folded seam allowance? Just wondering.
I must say I adore the above picture. Something really smart about the offwhite against the plaid/houndstooth.
I noticed the markings on where to place the 2 inch pleats on the back lining of the jacket is missing from the digital pattern but it's no biggie I figured it out from the pictures. 2 notches at the side sections of the lining patterns are also misplaced but you can trace the correct notches from the main jacket side pieces.
I will certainly make the Anise again in a solid colour crisper fabric but I am thinking, to underline or not to for a sturdier look? But I must take a breather after all that work on this one.
And I give myself a pat on the back for having the patience to complete my first fully lined jacket. :)
